Victorian Aestheticism

Victorian Aestheticism emerged in the mid-to-late 19th century as a response to the industrialization and strict social norms of the Victorian era. Aestheticism started in the 1860s but became popular in the 1880s. It is linked to the French term "fin de siècle," meaning the end of the century. This term describes the closing of one era and the beginning of a new one. In late nineteenth-century Britain, people started valuing Aesthetic values more than the traditional Victorian ideals. This shift happened because Britain faced challenges from emerging world powers like the United States, and its dominance declined. The Aesthetic movement rejected the strict morals and middle-class beliefs of the Victorian Age and focused on beauty instead. It marked a new way of thinking that went against Victorian traditions. The movement is often associated with Oscar Wilde's trials, which began in 1895. After that, Modernism emerged in the twentieth century as a new artistic movement.

Art for Art’s Sake

by IrishFarmArt

Aesthetic writers and artists believed art should be separate from worldly matters like politics. They thought that art should be valued for its beauty alone, not for any moral messages it might convey. They also rejected the idea that art should be seen as a reflection of the period in which it was created. Instead, they believed that art should be appreciated independently, without any outside influences. Their work was very refined and focused on appealing to the senses. Also, Oscar Wilde, a prominent figure in the Aesthetic movement, advocated for the concept of "art for art's sake." He believed art should exist for its own sake, without any utilitarian or moral purpose. According to Wilde, the value of art lies in its intrinsic beauty and the pleasure it brings rather than its practical or didactic function. He argued that artists should not be constrained by societal expectations or forced to create art with a specific agenda. Instead, they should be free to explore and express themselves purely through artistic creations.

Influences

Brasenose College, University of Oxford

The Aesthetes were influenced by a writer named Walter Pater and his book called "The Renaissance: Studies in Art and Poetry," published in 1873. Many writers, including John Addington Symonds and Oscar Wilde, learned from Pater while studying at Oxford University and became familiar with his work. Pater's book, particularly its conclusion, was the foundation for developing Aesthetic thought. In his book, Pater controversially stated that the experience itself, rather than its consequences, is the ultimate goal. He believed we should focus on the present moment and appreciate physical objects for their own sake rather than thinking about their lasting effects. Pater argued that reflecting on things diminishes their value because our minds focus on general aspects rather than the true beauty in a specific and fleeting moment. The Aesthetes embraced Pater's ideas to understand the importance of beauty over morality and the value of the present moment over long-lasting impressions.

Portrait of Charles Baudelaire by Gustave Courbet

Charles Baudelaire was a French poet who is considered a forerunner to the French symbolists and had many similarities to Victorian Aestheticism. Baudelaire's poetry included explicit and provocative subjects like lesbians and vampires, which influenced the aesthetes to push boundaries and explore sexuality in their own work. They also adopted Baudelaire's intense appreciation for sensuality and his belief in the connection between art and life. Oscar Wilde, an aesthetic writer, further developed this idea of the relationship between art and life. In his essay "The Decay of Lying: An Observation," Wilde argues that life imitates art more than art imitates life, suggesting that art is superior because it expresses beauty and meaning. This concept, built upon Baudelaire's ideas, became a central part of aesthetic doctrine.

Hellenism and Aestheticism

The change from focusing on Latin to Greek studies during the Victorian era had a significant impact on British society. Greek studies used to be about morality and were mainly pursued by scholars and politicians. However, the aesthetes, a group of people who appreciated beauty and pleasure, transformed Greek studies into something more rebellious. They brought back the Greek concept of hedonism, which means seeking pleasure and beauty as the purpose of life. The aesthetes became famous for their passionate and excessive behavior, especially when it came to sensuality and sexuality. They rejected the strict moral standards of the time, which were based on Christian beliefs, and instead followed the philosophies of the ancient Greeks. Because of their unconventional moral views, Aestheticism became associated with "decadence."

During the Victorian era, scientific progress was also booming, and ideas from Charles Darwin, like evolution, were gaining popularity. Science and art were seen as different and sometimes conflicting fields. When a society leans towards science, art can be addressed and considered more important. The aesthetes, however, admired Greece as a culture that managed to value art even in a scientific age. They wanted to follow that example. It does not mean that they opposed scientific progress. They saw it as a triumph over superstition and what they called the "dream world of Christianity."

The Aesthetic Lifestyle

The aesthetes were so dedicated to their ideas and beliefs that aestheticism became more than an art movement. It became a way of life. Being an aesthete was not just about the art you created; it was also reflected in your behavior. You could quickly identify an aesthete by the way they spoke. They often used exaggerated metaphors and extreme adjectives, like "supreme, consummate, utter, and preciously sublime." The aesthetic ideology influenced how the aesthetes approached fashion, sexuality, and even their use of alcohol and drugs.

Dandyism

Photograph by National Geographic, 19th-century

London Dandy StyleDandyism has always existed to some extent. In general, a dandy is someone who pays much attention to their appearance. They often dress uniquely and elegantly. In late Victorian England, being a dandy meant valuing artificial things more than natural ones. Oscar Wilde's "Phrases and Philosophies for the Use of the Young" (1894) begins with the line, "The first duty in life is to be as artificial as possible." An example of their love for artificiality is that they preferred city life over the countryside, especially being fascinated with London. Victorian dandies wanted to be sophisticated and valued cleverness and wit. Many aesthetic writers, like Oscar Wilde, Charles Swinburne, and Walter Pater, were well-known dandies.

Sexuality & Habits

In 1885, Britain passed a law called the Labouchere (labuşur) Amendment, which made homosexuality illegal. Men caught engaging in any sexual activity with other men could be sentenced to up to two years in prison. Despite this law, the late Victorian period saw a growing interest in exploring sexuality. Gender distinctions became more blurred, and public awareness of homoerotic desires increased. It was during this time that the words "homosexual" and "lesbian" were first used. The aesthetes, who appreciated beauty and pleasure, were influenced by these new liberal attitudes towards sexuality. Some aesthetes were homosexuals or had an interest in homoeroticism, which can be connected to their admiration for Greek culture. The Greeks accepted and celebrated love between men, considering it a source of pleasure. Homosexuality was depicted in Greek art and literature. Many aesthetes saw the Greek example as a validation of their homoerotic desires, and they believed that such desires were an integral part of their artistic and intellectual pursuits.

However, it was more than just a connection to the past that led the artists of this movement to embrace sexual deviance. The aesthetes, who valued individuality and opposed mainstream ideas, enjoyed shocking the middle class with their art and lifestyles. They created provocative artwork and embraced liberal attitudes towards sex, which went against the moral values of the Victorian era. They also sought to live in the present moment and engage in activities considered vices. Many aesthetes were known for their heavy alcohol consumption, particularly absinthe, and had a fascination with drugs like opium and hashish, seeking intense sensations. Although not all aesthetic artists adopted these habits, the premature deaths of many suggest that such behaviors were common. As we know, figures like Wilde, Beardsley, and Dowson died relatively young. 

Works Cited

(n.d.). Aestheticism. https://sites.udel.edu/britlitwiki/. Retrieved May 29, 2023, from

https://sites.udel.edu/britlitwiki/aestheticism/

User, S. (n.d.). The Trials of Oscar Wilde: An Account. https://www.famous-trials.com/wilde/327-home

Granger/Album. (2019, June 18). Sharp-dressed man Beau Brummell was the sole arbiter of male fashion and invented style rules that men still follow today. National Geographic.

https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/culture/2019/06/this-19th-century-london-dandy-caused-a-style-revolution